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Chile

San Pedro de Atacama

Oct 26 – 29, 2024 · With Gaurav, Aarti

22.91° S, 68.20° W

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Drove in from Bolivia. First introduction to Chile — more developed, better roads, more English. Rent a car instead of tours. Arrived at night via Calama (mining town, NOT safe, nothing to do — avoid staying there). Dogs everywhere and welcome in establishments.. Duration: 3 days. Trip 1 (From blog post): First visit documented in blog. Trip 2 (October 26-29, 2024): Transferred from Bolivia. Deepthi birthday celebration at Adobe! Hangover next morning. Went to Adobe twice. Second dinner at Tierra Todo — shrimp pil pil and pomfret not to their palate.

11Places
9Loved
4Days

Oct 26

1
Calle CaracolesattractionLoved

Main street, ~1km long, vehicle-free. Restaurants, mini-marts, tourist shops. Safe, policed. Free wi-fi everywhere, credit cards accepted. Mini-marts much cheaper than hotels for water/snacks. Dogs everywhere, mostly chill. Spent majority of time here.

2
Hard Road Atacama Hotelhotel

Average hotel, unbeatable location — couple blocks from Calle Caracoles. Next to what seemed like a stable (horse poop smell). Decor not great, wires hanging, electronics broken, no hot water (known issue). Only stay here if you want walkability.

3
Jardin MerakirestaurantLoved

Great for lunch. Open shaded patio. Live classic rock music, chilled beer, tasty food.

Oct 27

4
Naturalis HotelhotelLoved

A little pricey but excellent. Few rooms, great attention to detail. Superior rooms: large, clean, private patios. Staff helped plan 3-day itinerary. Unpolluted skies for stargazing. Economical clothes washing $5/kg. Equidistant from Calle Caracoles and Moon Valley (10-15 min). Note: water in San Pedro is hard and salty.

5
Mirador de Kari – Piedra del CoyoteattractionLoved

Rocky mountain plateau with overhanging rock overlooking Atacama desert. Must visit for SUNSET. Arrive early — tour buses drop hundreds of people 20 min before sunset. Get there first for parking and best spot.

6
Valley of the MoonattractionLoved

Part of Atacama desert, one of driest places on earth. Formed 33 million years ago. Otherworldly landscape — dunes, mountains, rock formations. Entrance ticket includes Mirador de Kari sunset. Sendero Duna Mayor 1-hour hike is a MUST. Mina de Sal less impressive if you've done Bolivian Salt Flats. Las Tres Marias (quartz/granite formations, 1M+ years old). Carry plenty of water.

7
Tierra Todo NaturalrestaurantSkip

True Chilean restaurant serving local delicacies. Food tasted very different/authentic — not suited to western palate. They left without eating. Good if you want authentic local cuisine, skip if you prefer western-friendly food.

Oct 28

8
El Tatio GeysersattractionLoved

80 geysers, third largest in world (after Yellowstone & Russian Valley of Geysers), largest in southern hemisphere, highest in world at 4,320m. Best viewed at SUNRISE — steam from contrast between air and water temps. Start at 4am, ~2 hours drive (80km). Drive slow and safe — reckless tour buses overtake in pitch darkness. Stay behind a civilian car.

9
Puritama Hot SpringsattractionLoved

~1 hour from downtown, in a canyon. 8 thermal baths at 28-31°C surrounded by 200ft canyon walls. Two slots: 9:30am-1:30pm and 2:30pm-6pm. Afternoon slot was great, not too crowded (4-5 people per pool). Clean restrooms, changing areas, lockers (bring your own lock). Very private experience.

10
AdoberestaurantLoved

Favourite restaurant in San Pedro! Celebrated a birthday here and went back again. Elaborate menu, excellent food, generous bartender, extremely friendly staff. Can't go wrong with anything on the menu.

Oct 29

11
La FranchuteriacafeLoved

Excellent breakfast spot. Pricey but outstanding croissants, pain au chocolat, sandwiches and coffee. Must for coffee lovers. Transforms into a bar in evenings with special events.

Tips from this trip
  • Sunscreen everyday, everywhere, all the time
  • Carry fleece/jackets for chilly evenings
  • Rent a car instead of taking a tour
  • Reach attractions before the tour buses
  • Hit geysers for sunrise — drive slow, drive behind someone, drive safe
  • Avoid staying in Calama

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