Patagonia W Trek — Torres del Paine
50.94° S, 73.41° W
Route: W Trek — West to East
Oct 30
Puerto Natales. Pre-trek accommodation Oct 30-31.
Nov 1
Nov 1. Arrived 8:45am, walked on beach to ferry at 9:20. Views: Grey Mountain, Paine Grande, Cuernos, path to French Valley. Ferry on Lake Grey 40 min — water has sediments (no light penetration), water temp -3°C.
Nov 1. Arrived 11am, nothing to do until 1pm check-in — had lunch and beers. Relaxed evening. Roommates: Chilean couple (45 years married!), elderly couple from LA who hiked the entire trek with D&G.
Nov 2
Nov 2. 6km round trip hike from Grey Refugio.
Nov 2. First real hike. Ups and downs, stopped for photos, didn't find rhythm. Took 4-5 hours (usually 3.5). Took Gu energy gel twice. Pooped out by arrival. Beautiful — glacier behind, walking through the valley.
Nov 2-3. Hub for all hikes (300-400 people). Shared room with Canadian couple (East to West) and a snorer. Wine & buffet dinner.
Nov 3
Nov 3. Left bags at Italiano, hiked up to mirador (midpoint). Deepthi's leg was hurting. Hike out of Paine Grande not impressive but hike to Italiano was beautiful — Paine Grande to the left, Cuernos in front.
Nov 3-4. BEST refugio! Beer, wine, met lots of people. Private cabin with private bathrooms. Last 1km to arrive — bodies shutting down. Hike along the beach was nice.
Nov 4
Nov 4. First 10-11km beautiful along the lake, ups and downs. Last 3km to Chileno was BRUTAL — all uphill, 2-3 hours. Saw horses coming up. Met Naomi and Bjorn again (first met at Grey). Spent evening with them — excellent time.
Nov 4-6. Rest day Nov 5 (snowing 7am-1pm, right ankle not working).
Nov 6
Nov 6. 3:00am start! Right ankle still bad. Hiked in dark — 3km ups/downs, 2km boulders (just up), last stretch snow and ice. REACHED BASE TORRES ~6:15am — SAW THE SUNRISE 🌅. By 6:40 cloudy again (lucky timing!). Coming down very difficult — ice, on all fours sometimes. Back to Chileno by 9:30.
Puerto Natales. Post-trek accommodation Nov 6.
Also
Puerto Natales. Went twice — arrival + post-trek. Good enough to bookend the trip!
Puerto Natales. Shrimp pizza and salmon salad.
Rented 55L and 35L bags for the trek.
Puerto Natales. Seafood stew and lamb ravioli for dinner.
Tips from this trip
- Hotel Grey navigation can get canceled in 70-80 km/h winds
- Book first navigation at 9am + private taxi ($250 USD)
- Bladder for water pack was hard to find — all shops closed for Halloween/All Saints
- Gu energy gels are essential
- Base Torres sunrise requires 3am start — worth it but brutal
- Cuernos is the best refugio — try to get a private cabin

