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Chile · South America Trip 2024 (Oct 11 – Nov 6)No story yet

Patagonia W Trek — Torres del Paine

Oct 30 – Nov 6, 2024 · With Just D&G (split from Gaurav & Aarti in Santiago)

50.94° S, 73.41° W

Route: W Trek — West to East

16Places
11Loved
8Days

Oct 30

1
Hostal El Establohotel

Puerto Natales. Pre-trek accommodation Oct 30-31.

Nov 1

2
Hotel Grey & Lake Grey FerryattractionLoved

Nov 1. Arrived 8:45am, walked on beach to ferry at 9:20. Views: Grey Mountain, Paine Grande, Cuernos, path to French Valley. Ferry on Lake Grey 40 min — water has sediments (no light penetration), water temp -3°C.

3
Grey RefugiohotelLoved

Nov 1. Arrived 11am, nothing to do until 1pm check-in — had lunch and beers. Relaxed evening. Roommates: Chilean couple (45 years married!), elderly couple from LA who hiked the entire trek with D&G.

Nov 2

4
Mirador Glacier & First BridgehikeLoved

Nov 2. 6km round trip hike from Grey Refugio.

5
Grey to Paine Grande (11km)hikeLoved

Nov 2. First real hike. Ups and downs, stopped for photos, didn't find rhythm. Took 4-5 hours (usually 3.5). Took Gu energy gel twice. Pooped out by arrival. Beautiful — glacier behind, walking through the valley.

6
Paine Grande Refugiohotel

Nov 2-3. Hub for all hikes (300-400 people). Shared room with Canadian couple (East to West) and a snorer. Wine & buffet dinner.

Nov 3

7
French Valley (Mirador)hikeLoved

Nov 3. Left bags at Italiano, hiked up to mirador (midpoint). Deepthi's leg was hurting. Hike out of Paine Grande not impressive but hike to Italiano was beautiful — Paine Grande to the left, Cuernos in front.

8
Cuernos RefugiohotelLoved

Nov 3-4. BEST refugio! Beer, wine, met lots of people. Private cabin with private bathrooms. Last 1km to arrive — bodies shutting down. Hike along the beach was nice.

Nov 4

9
Cuernos to Chileno (14km)hikeLoved

Nov 4. First 10-11km beautiful along the lake, ups and downs. Last 3km to Chileno was BRUTAL — all uphill, 2-3 hours. Saw horses coming up. Met Naomi and Bjorn again (first met at Grey). Spent evening with them — excellent time.

10
Chileno Refugiohotel

Nov 4-6. Rest day Nov 5 (snowing 7am-1pm, right ankle not working).

Nov 6

11
Base Torres SunrisehikeLoved

Nov 6. 3:00am start! Right ankle still bad. Hiked in dark — 3km ups/downs, 2km boulders (just up), last stretch snow and ice. REACHED BASE TORRES ~6:15am — SAW THE SUNRISE 🌅. By 6:40 cloudy again (lucky timing!). Coming down very difficult — ice, on all fours sometimes. Back to Chileno by 9:30.

12
Cabañas Las Leñashotel

Puerto Natales. Post-trek accommodation Nov 6.

Also

13
AfrigoniarestaurantLoved

Puerto Natales. Went twice — arrival + post-trek. Good enough to bookend the trip!

14
El BrisketrestaurantLoved

Puerto Natales. Shrimp pizza and salmon salad.

15
Rental Natalesshopping

Rented 55L and 35L bags for the trek.

16
Café KaikenrestaurantLoved

Puerto Natales. Seafood stew and lamb ravioli for dinner.

Tips from this trip
  • Hotel Grey navigation can get canceled in 70-80 km/h winds
  • Book first navigation at 9am + private taxi ($250 USD)
  • Bladder for water pack was hard to find — all shops closed for Halloween/All Saints
  • Gu energy gels are essential
  • Base Torres sunrise requires 3am start — worth it but brutal
  • Cuernos is the best refugio — try to get a private cabin

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